Comparing Itemized Written Used-Car Purchase Quotes

The short answer

To compare used-car quotes fairly, compare complete purchase totals, not advertised prices. The total is what you pay to drive the car away, including the vehicle price, dealer charges, optional products, taxes, government fees and delivery. First check that each quote describes the same vehicle and includes the same items. Then add up every line yourself and confirm it matches the quoted total. Keep your trade-in value and any financing terms in a separate section, because both can make one quote look cheaper than it really is.

An itemized written quote lists each charge separately, is dated, and is issued by a named seller. A verbal figure or a single monthly payment is not a quote you can compare. If a seller won't put the breakdown in writing, you can't verify it against other offers.

What each written quote should contain

Ask every seller for the same set of information so the quotes line up item by item:

• Seller name and the date the quote was issued
• Vehicle identification: year, make, model, trim, drivetrain, mileage and the 17-character VIN
• Advertised or agreed vehicle price
• Each dealer charge listed separately, such as documentation, preparation or reconditioning fees
• Optional products listed separately with individual prices, such as service contracts, paint or fabric protection, or theft-deterrent etching
• Quoted sales tax and the amount it was calculated on
• Title, registration and other government fees
• Delivery or transport charges, if any
• The complete purchase total
• The expiry date and any conditions attached to the price

Next to each amount, write down what it covers. A charge labeled only as a package or service is hard to compare until the seller explains what it includes and whether it duplicates something already in the vehicle price.

Make sure the quotes describe equivalent cars

Two quotes for what looks like the same car can cover meaningfully different vehicles. When comparing used Nissans, or any make, check these points before comparing money:

• Trim and equipment: different trims of the same model can differ in features, engine and drivetrain. Confirm the trim from the VIN or window sticker, not the listing headline.
• Mileage and condition: a lower price on a higher-mileage example is not a like-for-like saving.
• Certified pre-owned status: a manufacturer-certified car usually comes with inspection and coverage terms an uncertified car lacks. If one quote is certified and the other isn't, note that difference next to the totals. Check the current program terms directly with the manufacturer.
• Remaining factory warranty: on a recent model year, such as a 2022 vehicle, any remaining new-car warranty usually runs from the original in-service date and the odometer reading, not from the model year. Two cars from the same model year can have different amounts of coverage left.
• Warranty or as-is status: in the US, dealers covered by the Federal Trade Commission's Used Car Rule must display a Buyers Guide showing whether the car is sold as-is or with a warranty. Compare that status across quotes.

Reconcile each quote's arithmetic

Add every itemized line yourself and compare the result with the seller's total. If the numbers don't match, ask the seller to explain the gap. A mismatch may mean a charge is bundled into another line, a fee is left off the breakdown but included in the total, or an item is counted twice.

Illustrative example with invented figures (not real local prices or tax amounts):

Quote A
  Vehicle price                  $12,000
  Itemized dealer charge            $200
  Selected optional product         $300
  Quoted taxes                      $500
  Delivery                          $100
  -------------------------------------
  Complete purchase total        $13,100

If Quote A's stated total were $13,350, the extra $250 would need an explanation before you could compare it with anything else.

Compare totals side by side, with differences visible

Continuing the invented example, suppose a second seller advertises the same car for less:

Line item	Quote A	Quote B
Vehicle price	$12,000	$11,700
Itemized dealer charge	$200	$595
Optional product	$300 (requested)	$695 (pre-added, not requested)
Quoted taxes	$500	$520
Delivery	$100	$0 (pickup only)
Complete purchase total	$13,100	$13,510

Quote B's advertised price is $300 lower, but its total is $410 higher. It also contains a product you didn't ask for and doesn't include delivery. Don't subtract the unwanted product yourself and assume that's the price without it. Ask the seller for a revised written quote with only the products you want. Some sellers won't remove pre-installed items, and some will change other figures when they do. Delivery works the same way: either get both quotes on the same basis or record the difference next to the totals so it isn't forgotten.

Keep trade-in and financing separate

Trade-in allowances and financing terms are the easiest places for a weaker offer to look stronger. Record them in their own section under each quote rather than folding them into the purchase total.

• Trade-in: write down the allowance offered and any payoff owed on your current vehicle. A seller can offer a generous trade-in figure while charging more for the car, so compare purchase totals first and trade-in values second. Whether a trade-in reduces the amount subject to sales tax depends on your state, so confirm that before netting it against tax.
• Financing: note the annual percentage rate, term in months, amount financed, down payment and any lender fees. A low monthly payment can come from a longer term rather than a lower price.
• Conditional pricing: ask directly whether the quoted price depends on financing through the dealer, buying a particular product, or trading in a vehicle. If it does, ask for the price you would pay with cash or with your own outside financing, and get both figures in writing.

Verify taxes and government fees independently

Sales tax and registration fees are set by government, usually at the state level and sometimes with county or city additions. The rate that applies generally depends on where the car will be registered, not where the seller is located. Check the rate and fee schedule with your state's revenue department or motor vehicle agency. Note which official source you used and what amount it gives. If a quote's tax figure differs, ask the seller how they calculated it. Out-of-state and online sellers are the most likely to quote a different basis.

Dealer documentation fees are set by the seller, not the government. Some states cap or regulate them and others don't, so check your state's rules before treating the fee as fixed.

Track expiry dates and conditions

A quote is useful only while it remains valid. Record each expiry date and any conditions, such as the price applying only while the car is in stock or only with a deposit. If you need more time, ask for an updated written quote rather than relying on an old one.

Choosing between quotes

Once each quote is reconciled and adjusted to the same included items, the lowest complete purchase total is the best price for the car. Weigh it against the non-price differences you've recorded beside the totals: certification, remaining warranty, as-is status, mileage, condition and delivery. Then compare trade-in and financing as separate decisions. If one seller gives the best price and another gives the best trade-in or loan, you may be able to sell your car elsewhere or arrange outside financing.
Before signing, check that the final purchase contract matches the last written quote line by line, and ask about any figure that changed.